Red October

nothing to report on thru the holidays except that our rear headlight of the vehicle has cost us 300$. a passerby on a Bicycle hit the back end of our caravan during the summer and smashed out the weather protective cover. the result was a a requirement to get it replaced.

With the bad comes the good...enter Red October...

"It reminds me of the heady days of Sputnik and Yuri Gagarin when the world trembled at the sound of our rockets. Now they will tremble again – at the sound of our silence. The order is: engage the silent drive." Sean Connery, Red October

WTF is Red October you say? Well, its a small pine box, covered in thin plexiglass,  and silicone'd, with the LED bulbs from a 2011 Dodge Caravan wired in. Just a little fun project to pass the winter time.


Light On!

Lights Off!

Draws about 3 watts

Re-thinking the Spinnaker

I've been thinking a lot about Santeria's spinnaker set-up. As mentioned before, the boat is rigged for fully crewed symmetrical spinny sailing and could use some improvements. Here is what I was thinking....

1. Currently hardware'd for fully crewed sailing and could use some overall equipment and  hardware placement improvements 
2. Run spinnaker halyards, up and down hauls aft using organizers and rope stoppers. - With the installation of the clutches and rope stoppers this summer, there isn't that much to this task.
3. Improve spinnaker sets and retrievals using some basic dingy concepts

#1 and 2 are well in hand, however #3 is still up for discussion.

For set and retrieval improvements I am looking at 2 different options (in no particular order):

Option A - Horizontal spinnaker sock. Starting with a retrofitted ring, either built into the pullpit, mounted to the deck, or made from other rigid material installed at or near the pullpit.

A few examples of ring systems:

From as Laser 2

From a 550

Front View from a 550

The sock is then attached to the ring with its rigid rim. The sock material extend back toward, and about 1 foot beyond the mast. The sock lays flat on your deck with a retrieval line going from your cockpit, up the centre of the sock. 

With 2 retrieval grommets properly installed along the center 1/3 and 2/3 luff positions of the spinnaker, launches and douses become a piece of cake. The spinnaker sheets and halyards are attached to the head, tack and clew of the spinnaker and the retrieval line is run through the lower 1/3 spinnaker grommet, up the outward facing portion of the spinny to the top 2/3 grommet and terminated so it doesn't pull out of the grommet....like this

Before racing, the spinnaker is pre-hoisted at the dock and and doused into the sock system, ready for action. A 10 ft long sock is required to douse a 30 ft luff spinnaker (as Santeria's spinnaker luff is around 30 ft)

Option B - Vertical spinnaker sock.

Crewing on Sumac over the last 2 years, I have seen and used this hoisting and dousing system. It's a very appropriate system for fully crewed boats with dedicated foredeck crew. In Santeria's case, it's more likely that it will be raced single or double handed. I haven't decided whether this is an appropriate system for hoisting and dousing the spinnaker short handed.

Out with the Old, In With the New Tiller Handle

I have found that the design of the existing tiller has too many weak/under-engineered points along its construction. There are some noticeable cracks along certain plains of current tiller where forces have started to expose the weakest links. Below you can see the old tiller and the "fork" where the tiller wrapped around the shape of the rudder. The 2 weakest point of the old design are the forks that wrap around each side of the rudder, and where they connect into the thicker stock of the tiller. There are noticable cracks at this location and the previous owner has reinforced this area with through-bolts, as show in the top view. This tiller weighs about 7 1/2 lbs

I wanted to make a permanent replacement, essentially a new, beefier design. Copying the existing tiller would only introduce the same weaknesses so it was time to evolve the tiller, only slightly. Here is what I came up with:

The handle is square, and not tapered. It's made of wood, Meranti Mahogany. Instead of using wood forks, I went with 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 18" flat bar Stainless. One advantage of the stainless bars is that its tough and shouldn't ever bend.

The old tiller handle had a lot of play between the forks and the rudder. I had previously created some plastic blocking to fix this problem on the old rudder. The stainless forks are closer together than the old wood forks and will shape to the contours of rudder when bolted on, thereby reducing the need for the plastic blocking.

How to make and use a Leadline

The use of a lead line. In the race rule, its legal to just carry one of these on board or a sounder...or both..Interesting...

Image from http://rootsweb.ancestry.com/~mosmd/handline.htm

Here is a DIY and how to use the lead line. The below text was captured from:
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/seamanship/395-how-make-use-leadline.html

I had one for years and found it great for exploring in very shallow areas. The nice thing about a lead line is that you can read the water depth 20 to 40 feet away from the boat. I must admit that it was indispensable in figuring out where the deep water is when you are aground before you try to get free.

Lead lines are easily made but the actual "lead" is probably most easily bought. Traditionally, Leads were 5 to 10 pounds of lead cast into a tapered cylinder. There is a hole in the top of the cylinder so that the lead line can be attached. The other end of the ''lead'' had a hollow that traditionally was filled with tallow so that samples of the bottom material can be brought up. WoodenBoat Magazine sells already cast ones.

The one that I had was made from a 8 or 9 inch length of salvaged bronze 1 1/2" propellor shaft with a hole drilled in one end. I didn''t bother with the tallow pocket. I used a 70 or 80 foot long piece of 1/4" dacron three strand. One end was spliced through the hole in the Lead and the other end had a small eye splice that to would slip around my wrist so that I could not loose the line on an overly ambitious throw.

I made whippings every six feet on center with the first six feet measured from the bottom of the lead (the tallow pocket end). At the first six foot mark I made one whipping (stitched through the line so it would not move) and then at the second made two and so on up to 30 feet (five whippings) and then started over with 1 whipping again with the each of the six foot marks measured to the first of the whippings. I used a tarred marline for the whippings which made them dark brown against the white line. I doubt you can buy tarrd marline anymore so you might have to color the whippings with a laundry marker. (I also used red yarn to make two foot marks for the first 12 feet.)

To use the lead line, you stand on the bow and with one hand spin the the lead in a vertical circle on the end of about two to three feet of line. The rest of the length of the leadline is carefully coiled and held in your other hand. You release the leadline so that it leaves your hand on about a 45 degree upward direction. Prperly thrown the lead enters the water almost vertically and sinks to the bottom with the line almost vertically above. You can actually feel when the lead hits the bottom through the lead line and read the number of marks on the line calling out the marks to the helmsman. You then recoil the line and make your next throw. Some people do not pull the lead off the bottom until they are over the lead so that they make sure that the boat passes over the exact spot where the reading was taken and others like mayself would pull up the lead as fast as I could to take more frequent readings.

You should really practice on the end of a doc and later on the bow of your boat before you really try to do this in ernest. Thrown right you can aim your throw pretty precisely 20 to 40 feet away.

There are tricks to keeping from soaking the deck of the boat with muddy water. (start each throwby twirling slowly and at an angle to the boat and then speed up and bring the twirl to the angle that you want.) If you have to go very far you will wear yourself out after a while.

20 plus years ago I had to deliver a boat back from Charleston, S.C. shortly after Hurricane David and large sections of the intercoastal had shoaled in or shifted. There was one two mile section that we had to find our way and at the end of that hour or so my arms and shoulders were really warn out.

Hand Rails

Started working on the below deck hand rails tonight. Approximately 18 inches long by 2.5 inches wide. Made from Meranti Mahogany.

The inner hand grips are about 8 inches wide, wide enough to get your hand it comfortably. Each hand rail will be placed above the port and starboard quarter birth as to make it easier climbing in and out of the birth while under-way, and placed to not bump my head every time I go below :-)

VHF backup

Went to Durham Radio this afternoon and picked up 22 ft of black VHF cable at 0.60$ per foot. I had 2 male  PL-259 connectors that I used on a project from my old boat, Ailsa Craig. I installed each connector according to this article on how to supposedly do them right.

http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/

Using an existing VHF bracket and an old antenna from Santeria, I now have a backup antenna and cabling. I also installed a U bolt on the bracket so it can be installed on the top rail of the pushpit. The U bolt is not shown in the picture.

LO300...Reviewing the Rules...Conclusion.....

• Santeria's Toilet needs to be permanently fixed:
• New Hatch boards.....Done! Will use a double/double bungee cord to secure hatches
• The only through-hull opening is the speed meter. Will make tapered wood plugs
• Determine if its easier to attach the heel of the mast to the deck step or install mast step jockstraps
• Check the "tautness" of lifelines
• Nothing to do here...however the back 3 Port and Starboard toe rail bolts have slow leaks. Time to replace/repair.
• Stove ready and good to go, fully gimbaled for operation in a seaway. Still need to install.
• Do I really need permanent delivery pump and tank? Investigate further
• Hand Holds....Now added to the to-do list. Beginning construction this winter
• Manual Bilge Pump already installed but does not comply with the requirement to be operable with all hatches and companionways shut. Must think about relocating it from inside to outside
• 2 buckets of stout construction with Lanyards...Added to the required equipment list
• Will be purchasing Pull/Push pit backup battery powered LED navigation lights from Chandlery
• For Santeria, a motor that will do at least 4.4 knots...Use existing motor. Detach it during long distance races below deck
• Gas Tank already bungeed in place
• Comment regarding generator....Current motor has alternator, generator not required
• Current VHF radio is compliant
• Santeria's regular antenna depends on the mast, emergency VHF antenna will be bracketed on the pushpit...Will have to check if it has channel 72
• Have handheld GPS that is battery and 12V powered
• Must add passive reflector
• Must get the original sail numbers put on all race sails
• Again....Will make soft wood plugs
• JackStay port and starboard system will be installed this spring
• Additional individual clipping points at mast, cockpit and bow
• Santeria has one Fire Extinguisher, will add another
• Currently no Anchor system with Santeria. Early spring item.
• Foghorn to be added
• Again, Passive Reflector to be added
• Ask Peter where he picked up his Navigation charts. To be purchased. I have chart plotting equipment for manual plotting
• Create a safety equipment chart
• Lead line - Fabrication starting soon
• Will create a spare rudder and tiller handle
• Locate a pair of Wire Cutters...talk to the old man
• Add Yacht name to miscellaneous buoyant equipment, and floatation devices.
• Life Raft????
• Purchase a self igniting light and a drogue for lifebuoy
• Check the minimum number and class of signals required for Santeria
• Purchase throwing sock heaving line
• Cockpit Knife
• Find a try sail

LO300...Reviewing the Rules

Just went over the LO300 ISAF Offshore Special Regulations extract for Race Category 3 Monohulls.

I have extracted rules that are of particular interest to Santeria, either directly or indirectly.

ISAF OFFSHORE SPECIAL REGULATIONS
Extract for Race Category 3 Monohulls
JANUARY 2010 - DECEMBER 2011
Source: Category 3 Extract


Common Sense
1.02 Responsibility of Person in Charge
1.02.1 The safety of a yacht and her crew is the sole and inescapable
responsibility of the person in charge who must do his best to
ensure that the yacht is fully found, thoroughly seaworthy and
manned by an experienced crew who have undergone appropriate
training and are physically fit to face bad weather. He must be
satisfied as to the soundness of hull, spars, rigging, sails and all
gear. He must ensure that all safety equipment is properly
maintained and stowed and that the crew know where it is kept
and how it is to be used.

1.02.3 Decision to race -The responsibility for a yacht's decision to
participate in a race or to continue racing is hers alone - RRS
Fundamental Rule 4

Lake Ontario 300 is considered a Category 3 race:
2.01.4 Category 3
Races across open water, most of which is relatively protected or close
to shorelines.


Santeria's Toilet needs to be permanently fixed:
2.03.2 Heavy items:
      a) ballast, ballast tanks and associated equipment shall be
permanently installed
      b) heavy movable items including e.g. batteries, stoves, gas bottles,
tanks, toolboxes and anchors and chain shall be securely fastened
      c) heavy items for which fixing is not specified in Special Regulations
shall be permanently installed or securely fastened, as appropriate


New Hatch boards.....Done! Will use a double/double bungee cord to secure hatches
3.08.4 A companionway hatch shall:
      a) be fitted with a strong securing arrangement which shall be
operable from the exterior and interior including when the yacht is
inverted
      b) have any blocking devices:
   
      i capable of being retained in position with the hatch open or shut
 
     ii whether or not in position in the hatchway, secured to the yacht
(e.g. by lanyard) for the duration of the race, to prevent their being lost overboard
     iii permit exit in the event of inversion

3.08.5 If the companionway extends below the local sheerline and the boat
has a cockpit opening aft to the sea the boat shall comply with one of
the following:
      a) the companionway sill shall not extend below the local sheerline. or
      b) be in full compliance with all aspects of ISO 11812 to design
category A

The only through-hull opening is the speed meter. Will make tapered wood plugs
3.10 Sea Cocks or Valves
      Sea cocks or valves shall be permanently installed on all through-hull
openings below the waterline except integral deck scuppers, speed
indicators, depth finders and the like, however a means of closing such
openings shall be provided

Determine if its easier to attach the heel of the mast to the deck step or install mast step jockstraps
3.12 Mast Step
      The heel of a keel stepped mast shall be securely fastened to the mast
step or adjoining structure.

Check the "tautness" of lifelines
3.14 Pulpits, Stanchions, Lifelines
3.14.2 Lifelines required in Special Regulations shall be "taut".
      a) As a guide, when a deflecting force of 50 N (5.1 kgf, 11.2 lbf) is
applied to a lifeline midway between supports, the lifeline should
not deflect more than 50 mm.

Hmmm Carbon Fibre eh?
3.14.7 Pulpits, Stanchions, Lifelines - Limitations on Material
      TABLE 9
Earliest of Age or
Series Date
detail
before January 1987 carbon fibre is not recommended in stanchions
pulpits and lifelines.
January 1987 and after stanchions, pulpits and lifelines shall not be

Nothing to do here...however the back 3 Port and Starboard toe rail bolts have slow leaks. Time to replace/repair.
3.17 Toe Rail or Foot - Stop
3.17.1 A toe rail of minimum height 25 mm (1 in) shall be permanently
installed around the foredeck from abreast the mast, except in way of
fittings and not further inboard from the edge of the working deck than
one third of the local half-beam.
3.17.2 The following variations shall apply:-
      TABLE 10
   
LOA Earliest of
Age or
Series Date
minimum requirements
any before
January
1981
a toe rail minimum height of 20 mm (3/4 in) is
acceptable.
any before
January
1993
an additional lifeline of minimum height 25 mm (1
in) and maximum height 50 mm (2 in) is
acceptable in lieu of a toe rail (but shall not count
as an intermediate lifeline).
any January
1994 and
after
the toe rail shall be fitted as close as practicable to
the vertical axis of stanchion bases but not further
inboard than 1/3 the local half-beam.

Hmmmm...Buckets are lighter than a toilet....hmmmm
3.18 Toilet
3.18.2 A toilet, permanently installed or fitted bucket

Stove ready and good to go, fully gimbaled for operation in a seaway. Still need to install.
3.20 Cooking Facilities
3.20.1 A cooking stove, permanently installed or securely fastened with safe
accessible fuel shutoff control and capable of being safely operated in
a seaway.

Do I really need permanent delivery pump and tank? Investigate further
3.21 Drinking Water Tanks & Drinking Water
3.21.1 Drinking Water Tanks
      a) A yacht shall have a permanently installed delivery pump and water
tank(s):
3.21.3 Emergency Drinking Water
      a) At least 9 litres (2 UK gallons, 2.4 US gallons) of drinking water for
emergency use shall be provided in a dedicated and sealed
container or container(s)

Now added to the to-do list. Beginning construction this winter
3.22 Hand Holds
Adequate hand holds shall be fitted below deck so that crew members
may move about safely at sea
A hand hold should be capable of withstanding without rupture a side
force of 1500N - attention is drawn to ISO 15085.


3.23 Bilge Pumps and Buckets
3.23.1 No bilge pump may discharge into a cockpit unless that cockpit opens
aft to the sea.
3.23.2 Bilge pumps shall not be connected to cockpit drains. (OSR 3.09)
3.23.3 Bilge pumps and strum boxes shall be readily accessible for
maintenance and for clearing out debris
3.23.4 Unless permanently installed, each bilge pump handle shall be
provided with a lanyard or catch or similar device to prevent accidental
loss

Manual Bilge Pump already installed but does not comply with the requirement to be operable with all hatches and companionways shut. Must think about relocating it from inside to outside
3.23.5 The following shall be provided:
      d) at least one permanently installed manual bilge pump operable with
all cockpit seats, hatches and companionways shut


Added to the required equipment list
f) two buckets of stout construction each with at least 9 litres (2 UK
gallons, 2.4 US gallons) capacity. Each bucket to have a lanyard.

Will be purchasing backup battery powered LED navigation lights from Chandlery
3.27 Navigation Lights (see OSR 2.03.3)
3.27.4 Reserve navigation lights shall be carried having the same minimum
specifications as the navigation lights above, with a separable power
source, and wiring or supply system essentially separate from that
used for the normal navigation lights
3.27.5 spare bulbs for navigation lights shall be carried, or for lights not
dependent on bulbs, appropriate spares.


3.28.1 Propulsion Engines
      a) Engines and associated systems shall be installed in accordance
with their manufacturers’ guidelines and shall be of a type, strength,
capacity, and installation suitable for the size and intended use of
the yacht.
      b) An inboard propulsion engine when fitted shall: be provided with a
permanently installed exhaust, coolant, and fuel supply systems
and fuel tank(s); be securely covered; and have adequate
protection from the effects of heavy weather.

For Santeria, a motor that will do at least 4.4 knots
      c) A propulsion engine required by Special Regulations shall provide a
minimum speed in knots of (1.8 x square root of LWL in metres) or
(square root of LWL in feet)

Gas Tank already bungeed in place 
      d) A propulsion engine shall be provided either as an inboard
propulsive engine or as an outboard engine with associated tanks
and fuel supply systems, all securely fastened.

Current motor has alternator, generator not required
3.28.2 Generator
      A separate generator for electricity is optional. However, when a
separate generator is carried it shall be permanently installed, securely
covered, and shall have permanently installed exhaust, cooling and
fuel supply systems and fuel tank(s), and have adequate protection
from the effects of heavy weather.


Current VHF radio is compliant
3.29 Communications Equipment, EPFS (Electronic Position-Fixing
System), Radar, AIS
      Provision of GMDSS and DSC is unlikely to be mandatory for small
craft during the term of the present Special Regulations However it is
recommended that persons in charge include these facilities when
installing new equipment.
3.29.1 The following shall be provided:
      a) A marine radio transceiver (or if stated in the Notice of Race, an
installed satcom terminal), and
Santeria's regular antenna depends on the mast, emergency antenna will be bracketed on the pushpit
      i an emergency antenna when the regular antenna depends upon
the mast.
      b) When the marine radio transceiver is VHF:
   
      i it shall have a rated output power of 25W
   
     ii it shall have a masthead antenna, and co-axial feeder cable with
not more than 40% power loss
   
     iii the following types and lengths of co-axial feeder cable will meet
the requirements of OSR 3.29.1 (b)(ii): (a) up to 15m (50ft) - type
RG8X ("mini 8"); (b) 15-28m (50-90ft) - type RG8U; (c) 28-43m
(90-140ft) - type 9913F (uses conventional connectors, available
from US supplier Belden); (d) 43-70m) 140-230ft - type LMR600
(uses special connectors, available from US supplier Times
Microwave).

Will have to check if it has channel 72
     iv it should include channel 72 (an international ship-ship channel
which, by common use, has become widely accepted as primary
choice for ocean racing yachts anywhere in the world)
Have a waterproof hand-held. What else should be put into the grab bag?
      e) A hand-held marine VHF transceiver, watertight or with a
waterproof cover. When not in use to be stowed in a grab bag or
emergency container (see OSR 4.21)
Handheld receives weather bulletins  
f) Independent of a main radio transceiver, a radio receiver capable of
receiving weather bulletins

Have handheld GPS
i) An EPFS (Electronic Position-Fixing System) (e.g. GPS)
      o) An AIS Transponder is recommended

Must add passive reflector
3.29.2 Yachts are reminded that no reflector, active or passive, is a guarantee
of detection or tracking by a vessel using radar.    
a) The attention of persons in charge is drawn to legislation in force or
imminent affecting the territorial seas of some countries in which
the carriage of an AIS set is or will be mandatory for certain vessels
including relatively small craft.

SECTION 4 - PORTABLE EQUIPMENT & SUPPLIES for the yacht
(for water & fuel see OSR 3.21 and OSR 3.28)

Must get the original sail numbers put on all race sails
4.01 Sail Letters & Numbers
4.01.1 Yachts which are not in an ISAF International Class or Recognized
Class shall comply with RRS 77 and Appendix G as closely as
possible, except that sail numbers allotted by a State authority are
acceptable.
What does this mean? 
4.01.2 Sail numbers and letters of the size carried on the mainsail must be
displayed by alternative means when none of the numbered sails is
set.

Will make soft wood plugs
4.03 Soft Wood Plugs
      Soft wood plugs, tapered and of the appropriate size, shall be attached
or stowed adjacent to the appropriate fitting for every through-hull
opening.

JackStay port and starboard system will be installed this spring
4.04 Jackstays, Clipping Points and Static Safety Lines
4.04.1 The following shall be provided:
      a) Jackstays:-
      shall be provided-
   
      i attached to through-bolted or welded deck plates or other
suitable and strong anchorage fitted on deck, port and starboard
of the yacht's centre line to provide secure attachments for
safety harness:-
   
     ii comprising stainless steel 1 x 19 wire of minimum diameter 5
mm (3/16 in), or webbing of equivalent strength;
   
     iii which, when made from stainless steel wire shall be uncoated
and used without any sleeving;
Webbing will be used on Santeria
     iv 20kN (2,040 kgf or 4,500 lbf) min breaking strain webbing is
recommended;

Additional individual clipping points at mast, cockpit and bow
4.04.2 Clipping Points:-
      shall be provided
      a) attached to through-bolted or welded deck plates or other suitable
and strong anchorage points adjacent to stations such as the helm,
sheet winches and masts, where crew members work for long
periods:-
      b) which, together with jackstays and static safety lines shall enable a
crew member-
      i to clip on before coming on deck and unclip after going below;  
     ii whilst continuously clipped on, to move readily between the
working areas on deck and the cockpit(s) with the minimum of
clipping and unclipping operations.
      c) The provision of clipping points shall enable two-thirds of the crew
to be simultaneously clipped on without depending on jackstays
      e) Warning - U-bolts as clipping points - see OSR 5.02.1(a)

Santeria has one Fire Extinguisher, will add another
4.05 Fire Extinguishers
      Shall be provided as follows:
4.05.1 Fire extinguishers, at least two, readily accessible in suitable and
different parts of the yacht
4.05.2 Fire Extinguishers, at least two, of minimum 2kgs each of dry powder
or equivalent

Currently no Anchor system with Santeria. Early spring item.
4.06 Anchor(s)
4.06.1 An anchor or anchors shall be carried according to the table below:
      a) The following anchors shall be provided
   
      i For yachts of 8.5 m LOA (28 ft) and over there shall be 2
anchors together with a suitable combination of chain and rope,
all ready for immediate use
   
     ii For yachts under 8.5 m LOA (28 ft) there shall be 1 anchor
together with a suitable combination of chain and rope, all ready
for immediate use


4.07 Flashlight(s)
4.07.1 The following shall be provided:-
      a) a watertight, high-powered flashlight or spotlight, with spare
batteries and bulbs, and
      b) a watertight flashlight with spare batteries and bulb

4.08 First Aid Manual and First Aid Kit
4.08.1 A suitable First Aid Manual shall be provided
      In the absence of a National Authority's requirement, the latest edition
of one of the following is recommended:-
      b) First Aid at Sea, by Douglas Justins and Colin Berry, published by
Adlard Coles Nautical,London
      c) Le Guide de la medecine a distance, by Docteur J Y Chauve,
published by Distance Assistance BP33 F-La Baule, cedex, France.
An English translation may be available.
4.08.2 A First Aid Kit shall be provided
4.08.3 The contents and storage of the First Aid Kit should reflect the
guidelines of the Manual carried, the likely conditions and duration of
the passage, and the number of people aboard the yacht.

Foghorn to be added
4.09 Foghorn
      A foghorn shall be provided

Again, Passive Reflector to be added
4.10 Radar Reflector, AIS (Automatic Identification System)
4.10.1 A passive Radar Reflector (that is, a Radar Reflector without any
power) shall be provided
      a) If a radar reflector is octahedral it must have a minimum diagonal
measurement of 456 mm (18in), or if not octahedral must have a
documented RCS (radar cross-section) of not less than 10 m2. The
minimum effective height above water is 4.0 m (13 ft).
      b) The passive and active devices referred to in these notes and in
4.10.1 and 4.10.2 above are primarily intended for use in the X
(9GHz) band
4.10.2 The most effective radar response from a yacht may be provided by an
RTE (Radar Target Enhancer) which may be on board in addition to
the required passive reflector. An RTE should conform to
Recommendation ITU-R 1176. An RTE is strongly recommended.
      b) The display of a passive reflector or the operation of an RTE is for
the person in charge to decide according to prevailing conditions.
4.10.3 A passive reflector in compliance with revised ISO8729 (revision in
progress at 1/06) offers improved performance over ealier models and
has a size typified by a cylinder of not more than weight 5kg, height
750mm and dia 300mm. When revised ISO 8729 is published the
Special Regulations regarding radar reflectors will be reviewed and
may be changed.
4.10.4 S (3GHz) band radar is often used by ships to complement X (9GHz)
band radar. On S (3GHz) band a conventional reflector or RTE offers
about 1/10 the response obtained on the X (9GHz) band.

Ask Peter where he picked up his Navigation charts. To be purchased. I have chart plotting equipment for manual plotting
4.11 Navigation Equipment
4.11.1 Charts
      Navigational charts (not solely electronic), light list and chart plotting
equipment shall be provided

Create a safety equipment chart
4.12 Safety Equipment Location Chart
      A safety equipment location chart in durable waterproof material shall
be displayed in the main accommodation where it can best be seen,
clearly marked with the location of principal items of safety equipment.

Lead line - Fabrication starting soon
4.13 Echo Sounder or Lead Line
4.13.1 An echo sounder or lead line shall be provided
4.14 Speedometer or Distance Measuring Instrument (log)
      A speedometer or distance measuring instrument (log) shall be
provided

Will create a spare rudder and tiller handle
4.15 Emergency Steering
4.15.1 Emergency steering shall be provided as follows:
      a) except when the principal method of steering is by means of an
unbreakable metal tiller, an emergency tiller capable of being fitted
to the rudder stock;
      b) crews must be aware of alternative methods of steering the yacht in any sea condition in the event of rudder loss. At least one method
must have been proven to work on board the yacht. An inspector
may require that this method be demonstrated.

Locate a pair of Wire Cutters
4.16 Tools and Spare Parts
      Tools and spare parts, including effective means to quickly disconnect
or sever the standing rigging from the hull shall be provided.

Add Yacht name to miscellaneous buoyant equipment, like crew members :-) and floatation devices.
4.17 Yacht's name
      Yacht's name shall be on miscellaneous buoyant equipment, such as
lifejackets, cushions, lifebuoys, lifeslings, grab bags etc.

Fit Marine grade retro-reflective material to various stuff
4.18 Marine grade retro-reflective material
      Marine grade retro-reflective material shall be fitted to lifebuoys,
lifeslings, liferafts and lifejackets. See OSRs 5.04, 5.08.



4.22 Lifebuoys
4.22.1 The following shall be provided within reach of the helmsman and
ready for instant use:
Purchase a self igniting light and a drogue for lifebuoy
      a) a lifebuoy with a self-igniting light and a drogue or a Lifesling with a
self-igniting light and without a drogue.
4.22.3 Each inflatable lifebuoy and any automatic device (eg pole and flag
extended by compressed gas) shall be tested and serviced at intervals
in accordance with its manufacturer's instructions.
4.22.4 Each lifebuoy or lifesling shall be fitted with marine grade retroreflective material (4.18).

Check the minimum number and class of signals required for Santeria
4.23 Pyrotechnic and Light Signals
4.23.1 Pyrotechnic signals shall be provided conforming to SOLAS LSA Code
Chapter III Visual Signals and not older than the stamped expiry date
(if any) or if no expiry date stamped , not older than 4 years.
   
red parachute flares
LSA III 3.1
red hand flares
LSA III 3.2
orange smoke
LSA III 3.3
race
category
6 4 2 MoMu0,1
4 4 2 MoMu2,3
    4 2 Mo4
2 4 2 Mu4
      TABLE 13

4.23.2 The following lights shall be provided and readily available for the
purpose of collision avoidance:
      a) a watertight white torch (flashlight) with spare batteries and bulb
      b) a watertight, high-powered white spotlight (searchlight) with spare
batteries and bulbs

Purchase throwing sock heaving line
4.24 Heaving Line
      a) a heaving line shall be provided 15 m - 25 m (50 ft - 75 ft) length
readily accessible to cockpit.      b) the "throwing sock" type is recommended - see Appendix D

Cockpit Knife
4.25 Cockpit Knife
      A strong, sharp knife, sheathed and securely restrained shall be
provided readily accessible from the deck or a cockpit.

Find a try sail
4.26 Storm & Heavy Weather Sails
4.26.1 Design
      a) it is strongly recommended that persons in charge consult
their designer and sailmaker to decide the most effective size
for storm and heavy weather sails. The purpose of these sails
is to provide safe propulsion for the yacht in severe weather -
they are not intended as part of the racing inventory. The areas
below are maxima. Smaller areas are likely to suit some yachts
according to their stability and other characteristics.

4.26.2 High Visibility
      a) it is strongly recommended that every storm sail should either be of
highly-visible coloured material (eg dayglo pink, orange or yellow)
or have a highly-visible coloured patch added on each side; and
also that a rotating wing mast used in lieu of a trysail should have a
highly-visible coloured patch on each side
4.26.3 Materials
      a) aromatic polyamides, carbon and similar fibres shall not be used in
a trysail or storm jib but spectra/dyneema and similar materials are
permitted.
      b) it is strongly recommended that a heavy-weather jib does not
contain aromatic polyamides, carbon and similar fibres other than
spectra/dyneema.
4.26.4 The following shall be provided:-
      a) sheeting positions on deck for each storm and heavy-weather sail;
      b) for each storm or heavy-weather jib, a means to attach the luff to
the stay, independent of any luff-groove device. A heavy weather jib
shall have the means of attachment readily available. A storm jib
shall have the means of attachment permanently attached;
      c) when a storm trysail is required by OSR 4.26.4 (g) it shall be
capable of being sheeted independently of the boom with area not
greater than 17.5% mainsail luff length x mainsail foot length. The
storm trysail shall have neither headboard nor battens, however a
storm trysail is not required in a yacht with a rotating wing mast
which can adequately substitute for a trysail;
      d) if a storm trysail is required by OSR 4.26.4 (g) the yacht's sail
number and letter(s) shall be placed on both sides of the trysail (or
on a rotating wing mast as substitute for a trysail) in as large a size
as practicable;
   
f) a heavy-weather jib (or heavy-weather sail in a yacht with no forestay) of area not greater than 13.5% height of the foretriangle
squared and without reef points;
      g) either a storm trysail as defined in OSR 4.26.4(c), or mainsail
reefing to reduce the luff by at least 40%.
   
i) It is strongly recommended that the heavy-weather jib does not
contain aromatic polyamides, carbon fibres and other high modulus
fibres.


SECTION 5 - PERSONAL EQUIPMENT


5.01 Lifejacket
5.01.1 Each crew member shall have a lifejacket as follows:-
      a) In accordance with ISO 12402 – 3 (Level 150) or equivalent,
      ISO 12402 requires Level 150 lifejackets to be fitted with a mandatory
whistle and retro-reflective material. Also, when fitted with a safety
harness, ISO 12402 requires that this shall be the full safety harness in
accordance with ISO 12401. Any equivalent lifejacket shall have equal
requirements.
      Note: persons of larger than average build are generally more buoyant
than those of average build and so do not require a lifejacket with
greater levels of flotation. Wearing a Level 275 lifejacket may hamper
entry into liferafts.
      b) fitted with either a crotch strap(s) / thigh straps or a full safety
harness in accordance with ISO 12401,
      Crotch straps or thigh straps together with related fittings and fixtures
should be strong enough to lift the wearer from the water.
      c) fitted with a lifejacket light in accordance with SOLAS LSA code
2.2.3 (white, >0.75 candelas, >8 hours),
      d) if inflatable have a compressed gas inflation system,
      e) if inflatable, regularly checked for gas retention,
f) compatible with the wearer's safety harness,
      g) clearly marked with the yacht's or wearer's name,
      It is strongly recommended that a lifejacket has:
j) a splashguard / sprayhood See ISO 12402 – 8,
      k) a PLB unit (as with other types of EPIRB, should be properly
registered with the appropriate authority)
   
l) if of a gas inflatable type, a spare cylinder and if appropriate a spare
activation head
5.01.4 The person in charge shall personally check each lifejacket at least once annually.


5.02 Safety Harness and Safety Lines (Tethers)
5.02.1 Each crew member shall have a harness and safety line that complies
with ISO 12401 or equivalent with a safety line not more than 2m in
length.
      Harnesses and safety lines manufactured prior to Jan 2010 shall
comply with either ISO 12401 or EN 1095.
      Harnesses and safety lines manufactured prior to Jan 2001 are not
permitted.
      a) Warning it is possible for a plain snaphook to disengage from
a U bolt if the hook is rotated under load at right-angles to the
axis of the U-bolt. For this reason the use of snaphooks with
positive locking devices is strongly recommended.
5.02.2 At least 30% of the crew shall each, in addition to the above be
provided with either:-
      a) a safety line not more than 1m long, or
      b) a mid-point snaphook on a 2m safety line
5.02.3 A safety line purchased in January 2001 or later shall have a coloured
flag embedded in the stitching, to indicate an overload. A line which
has been overloaded shall be replaced as a matter of urgency.
5.02.4 A crew member's lifejacket and harness shall be compatible
5.02.5 It is strongly recommended that:-
      a) static safety lines should be securely fastened at work stations;
      b) A harness should be fitted with a crotch strap or thigh straps.
Crotch straps or thigh straps together with related fittings and
fixtures should be strong enough to lift the wearer from the water.
      Note: Before the end of 03/10 ISAF will publish recommended
minimum breaking strains which for equipment purchased on or after
01/11 will be mandatory. Effective January 2011, a harness shall be
fitted with crotch or thigh straps.
      c) to draw attention to wear and damage, stitching on harness and
safety lines should be of a colour contrasting strongly with the
surrounding material;
      d) snaphooks should be of a type which will not self-release from a Ubolt (see OSR 5.02.1(a)) and which can be easily released under
load (crew members are reminded that a personal knife may free
them from a safety line in emergency);
      e) a crew member before a race should adjust a harness to fit then
retain that harness for the duration of the race.
5.02.6 Warning - a safety harness is not designed to tow a person in the water
and it is important that a harness is used to minimise or eliminate the
risk of a person's torso becoming immersed in water outside the boat.
The diligent use of a properly adjusted safety harness is regarded as by far the most effective way of preventing man overboard incidents.
5.04 Foul Weather Suits
      b) it is recommended that a foul weather suit should be fitted with
marine-grade retro-reflective material, and should have highvisibility colours on its upper parts and sleeve cuffs.See OSR 4.18

SECTION 6 – TRAINING
6.04 Routine Training On-Board
6.04.1 It is recommended that crews should practice safety routines at
reasonable intervals including the drill for man-overboard recovery
6.05.3 At least one member of the crew shall be familiar with First Aid
procedures, hypothermia and relevant communications systems (see
OSR 6.02.7, 6.03.4)

Goodbye sink, hello hatch

The sink on Santeria was never really installed. Previous owners cut a hole in the port side navigation station area, laid the sink in place, but never ran connective pipe and a thru-hull. I figured that Santeria really didn`t need a sink and ripped it out on the last Tuesday night sail of 2011. Anyone need a sink....seriously anyone?

I wanted a hatchway so that I could store stuff in the area below, the now, navigation station. This area is an unused storage cavity and may prove useful in stowing items not-so-sensitive to moisture.

Made from pine outside, and marine 1/4" plywood inside (thanks to the guy at Peacocks who gave me 3  x 12 3/8 square pieces). To be installed in spring. I have two other pieces of marine plywood left over if anyone needs them.

Rear (inner) side, yes that`s my toe....

Front (outer) side

Main Cover - Repair

The main cover has been mangled and chewed by annoying little mice, and not as annoying crew. Fortunately though, the extent of the damage is repairable, or in my case, patchable. Went to ace upholstery this evening and purchased a yard of gray Sunbrella-like material matching the existing gray on Santeria's main cover. Expensive at 25$ per yard, but I only needed one yard, so what the hell...

Had dinner with the dog, broke out the sewing machine, cut some material, trimmed and sewed it in place, and voila, A 2-part patch down the middle and a new tail. Also added a new grommet for attachment to the backstay (ripped off the old main cover toward the end of last year)

Electrical Part 3....PreFabrication

Nothing to report on, except that I have found some appropriate terminal panels for pos(+) and neg(-) wiring within Santeria. A few bus bars combined with PVC waterproof boxes are my solution for Electrical Part 2.

Electrical Part 2

Ok, the panel is made, now here is phase 2, the electrical design. 

Electrical Panel

Decided that I would re-run all electrical to a panel positioned in the port nav station (where the sink was). The existing electrical panel (installed on the side of the nav station) was in a bad position, and the switches were constantly being turned on when sails and people brushed up against them. The panel will be positioned in the space, fastened to the top shelf and fastened to the nav table below, in a vertical installation. The stereo will also be removed from its forward facing position and mounted in the electrical panel.

Port side speaker will be removed as well.

Went to the chandlery and picked up an identical panel to the existing panel installed on Santeria. I will require 10 circuits, so doubling the existing panel will give me 12 (6 in each panel). 28.99 + tax. Pretty damn close to the original 35 yr old panel.

Next, will need to mount them somewhere. I had some 1 inch x 10 inch pine board, and ran them through the planer down to 1/2". I then routed out the back of each panel as shown below. 2 coats of varnish and this is all that I'm looking for.

Will save room for more gadgets on this panel.

The stereo and other electrical panel will be mounted here.

Both panels will be mounted side by side

Main Reefer.....Smokem if you got'em

So, main reefing, here are some pictures and deep thoughts (similar to those by Jack Handy, without the punch line).

Introducing reef point #1 and #2 (as positioned by the Harken bullet blocks). Starboard side of boom, Aft end to the left, forward end to the right. The assumption with this configuration is that we will still have to go on the foredeck to move the cunningham from one luff reef point to another before engaging this system. Fully crewed, no problem, double and single handed (auto-tiller will theoretically steer).

Measurements were taken along each reef point from the luff edge (in-line with the reefing grommet) to the back edge of the clew. #1 is 8ft 10in, and #2 is exactly 8ft.

Distance from the main tack grommet to the #1 reef tack grommet is 3 ft. Distance from the main tack grommet to the #2 reef tack grommet is 7 ft.

Blocks are positioned about 3" aft of the furthest human stretchable position of each corresponding reefing clew. I figured that slight over-estimating is better than slight underestimating distance from the tack grommet (we want to keep the main foot tight!).

So, as the picture shows, I am undecided whether to use a cam-cleat or clam (locking) cleat to stop the reefing lines.

Each cam cleat is relatively small, heavier than its counterpart, has a fairlead, and is a superior solution in terms of "lock it and leave it".

The clam (locking) cleat also has a fairlead, is also an appropriate solution, and significantly lighter. It does however require some additional attention to make sure its locked in position.

So, we have 2 hypothetical reef-line mechanisms for use with a bullet block. Would like to hear back from the Banana Hammock crew (aka...the 2 nuts)

Another way to go is using a track system with a single cheek car for reef adjustment. A track system is neat and tidy, with some minor car pin adjustments required for reefing. Considering I already had most of the hardware (yes...recycling the deck hardware removed in the fall) for the previously discussed system, the track system would be an additional expense. This is not the Scottish way (right Peter?)

In addition, I also purchased 1/4" reefing hooks (for each reef point) for reefing the grommets down towards the boom.

To me, these baby's are a must have, easy pleasy. These would splice into thimbles of 1/4" double yacht braid, run down to the harken blocks and cleated along the boom, thereby completing the reefing system. The tack hooks would reduce cordage of each reef by 1/2 (compared to traditional jiffy reefing systems where lines are run up to the reef grommet and down to the boom).

I considered a slab reefing system, but again, too expensive for my blood. An example of a slab system is linked below (thanks google)

http://0.tqn.com/d/sailing/1/5/_/3/-/-/Reefing2.jpg

Splicing up my life

Bought a Sampson splicing kit. There are fids in the kit for  1/4" to 1/2" rope. Spent the last 2 evenings practising on some old worn out line taken from Santeria last year. Lots of swearing and screw ups, trail and error.

Built my first 2 successful eye splices with thimble tonight, one from 1/4" double briad, and the second from 7/64 amsteel.

I had to make a custom fid for the amsteel as it requires something very thin, and somehow magically hold line. Overall, 7/64 amsteel was a PITA (because took a long time to make a custom fid) and yacht braid was somewhat, but less painful.

7/64 Amsteel with Thimble

1/4" Double braid with thimble

Examples of splicing applications:

Genoa sheets
Reefing lines
Baby stay
Main Halyard

Lee Cloth

Purchased some brown canvas, webbing, and supporting clips for the lee cloth arrangement. I have reverse engineered the lee cloth design and layout used on Sumac, one for port, and one for starboard quarter birth.


Materials and cost:

2 meters of canvas = 24$ ( on sale, 50% off at Fabricland, GO NOW IF YOU NEED FABRIC FOR SPRING)
2 sets of clips = 9$
2 Sets of sewing needles = 3$
Strong UV thread = 4$
Webbing 6 meters = 6$
TOTAL 46$



Essentially, while under-way, sleepy pecker-heads will not sleep in the V -birth, and will instead snuggle into a 28" x 58" coverage of canvas with adjustable straps (for those of us that need to loose a little weight around our mid sections). The long side of the cloth (from the picture above, directly opposite of the strap side), will be fastened to the inner fibreglass liner, under the quarter birth cushions.  The strap end will be fastened to the overhead storage area shelf (see image below). Will see how this arrangement works in the spring when I get a chance to install.

Companionway Boards

Ou la la, new companionway boards. 

Went to Peacock Lumber and order 1" x 10" x 10' piece of Meranti Mahogany. I used my thickness planer to bring it down from 1" to 1/2" to fit in my companionway slots. I notched the board joints, sanded and applied the stain last night. Today I gave it 1 of 5 coats of Sunbar Spar Varnish. Very happy with the mahogany grain. The stain gives it a deeper brownish red finish than its original color. Can't wait to fit them in the spring. 

Say Bye Bye to the old plexiglass companionway piece!

Bart has provided some good feedback regarding how to latch the boards for racing (based on French Vanilla's latching system). Will attempt to do this in the spring.

My concern here is similar to the concerns raised by Storm Trooper (Soverel 33) in 2010. I believe that the same predicament and solution applies to Santeria, even more important to be able to permanently latch the bottom companionway board while underway.

Unfortunate for Storm Trooper, the companionway boards were the least of their worries in 2010 (de-masted in heavy winds).

LO300 Safety Requirements FAQ’s

Q. – It seems however there is a new rule that may not have been in play for last year’s event. Specifically it is 3.083, which seems to come from the Offshore Special Regulations where a companionway hatch cannot extend below the Local Sheerline for a boat with an open transom. A Soverel 33 has an open transom and the companionway entrance is lower than the settees but elevated about 10 inches off of the deck. Is the meaning of Local sheerline the deck or is it the classic sense of the term sheerline which would refer more to the top extremity of the hull. Would we actually be ineligible to race given this layout of our deck and companionway or are there other things that we can do, ie. Build a special companion hatch and secure it that extends to the top of the settees etc…?

A – you are correct in noting the wording is from the Offshore Regulations Cat.3. I am assuming the requirement stems from the concern of a following wave coming in through the open transom and finding its way below. I have always liked open transoms from a safety point of view, having once been swamped with a boarding wave into a closed cockpit with two miniscule cockpit drains, promptly blocked by loose spinnaker sheets. Keeping the water out of the cabin is the paramount concern, long enough for the outflow through the open stern or drains. I would recommend you try to have the bottom of the companionway blocked up to the side deck level with a secured drop board (Shock cord or slide bolts)Let us know if this is possible and we can put the answer onto the FAQ link for others to follow.

Auto Helm - Tiller Handle Modifications

During my last sail before fall haul-out, I was playing with the configuration of the auto helm in relationship to the tiller handle angle and location in the cockpit. I had already installed the epoxy plug on the starboard cockpit seat the day earlier and wanted to be 100% about the height and placement of the auto helm arm and pin before drilling holes in the tiller. In a nice 9 knot sail, I was able to figure out the required height above the tiller handle using wooden block and a hose clamp. A temporary work around on a not so windy evening.

Last night and this afternoon, while my daughter was sleeping, I had just enough time to create the base for the auto helm tiller arm and pin. The base is made of 2, 1 foot length pieces of 2 X 4 cedar, epoxied together. The tiller arm and pin for the auto helm had to be 2 1/4 inches raised from the tiller handle in order to be installed parallel with the cockpit mounting location of the auto helm, hence the purpose of this arm base.

A groove was router'd to fit the width of the arm down the center of the base.

The ends were tapered upward towards the arm groove. 

A little magic with the mitre saw and some sanding with the mouse sander returned a pretty decent looking base. I applied 2 coats of stain but didn't have time for the varnish. 

:

 The result mounted

The result, up close.

Cost of project, 4.50$ for a 2 X 4 cull cedar board (this board was badly warped but still salvageable, apparently Home depot will sell you defective lumber for 50% off the sticker price), 8$ for 3ft of threaded SS 1/4" Rod (couldn't find 4" SS 1/4" bolts anywhere). Nuts and washers I had from another project. The tiller arm was fashioned from an existing piece of 1/8" X 1 1/4" X 12" SS  given to me bykj another boater 2 years ago. The pin came with the auto helm.

Will complete the 5 coats of varnish next week after I return from 4 day of deer hunting.

Spreaders

While having the mast down, I noticed that the rivets holding both spreader bases to the mast were sloppy.

Each base had 4 stainless steel rivets. Needed 8 total. Finally found some at a Toronto based chandlery and paid 0.50 cents a piece. Rip off!

After removing the spreader tips, I realized that there was a chunk of leftover plastic housing that appeared to go completely around the spreader tip, separating the base and the tip. It was way down at the bottom of the base and I'm guessing this was likely original.

Spreader base

Throughout the 2011 sailing season, various crew members pointed out the sloppiness of the spreader tips at different points of sail. The missing / destroyed piece would explain their behaviour this season.

Aside from the missing plastic, the tips were in good shape with only a few wear points as a result of the missing plastic. The spreader base and tips were removed and were taken home to fix. I measured the thickness of the plastic piece removed from the spreader base and eventually found a $1.50 cutting board at the dollar store with the same thickness. The cutting board was moulded to the circular shape of the oval housing using a heat gun. An hour later I had 2 replacement pieces that fit the spreader tips perfectly. I replaced the bent, under-engineered 10-32 SS bolt holding the spreader tip to the base with a 1/4" SS bolt

All together, the repair of the spreaders was $5 for SS rivets, $1.70 for a dollar store cutting board and $2.50 for 2 new 1/4 bolts and 2 lock nuts.

I don't believe there is a store within a 50km radius of my home that sells 3/16" stainless steel rivets.

Cars...Cars... and more Cars...

Santeria is fitted with a high load, low friction car system made by Kenyon. Kenyon Traveller Systems are designed around a hardcote anodized Aluminum I-Beam Track that comes in 2 sizes. Cars run on SS wheels with SS Ball Bearings in free-floating races for minimum friction.

Originally marketed under the SEABOARD name.

Santeria has 5 different cars, 2 on the genoa sheeting track (6 pin), 2 on the genoa sheeting angler (4 pin), and 1 on the baby stay track (6 pin). Each pin runs on 6 stainless steel bearing. It would have cost me over 700$ to replace the cars. A company called RigRite still sells replacements for the Kenyon car system.

The project, take cars off for maintenance and repair.

What I found:

1. years of old gunk and grime built up around the pins impeding bearing efficiency.
2. Non stainless ball bearings, rusted together, really impeding bearing efficiency!
3. Inspection of the genoa car sheaves mounted to the top of the cars are garbage.
4. Some SS bearing had tiny flat spots from the years of wear and tear.

The solution:

1. A good cleaning
2. Throw out non-SS bearings
3. Replace SS ball bearings with flat spots (Ordered a bag of 100 SS 3/16" bearings for 8$ at Fastenal)
4. Fashion up new sheaves out of round plastic shanks until I can replace them...maybe next year.

The result:

1. Free flowing, smooth cars along the baby stay and genoa car tracks
2. The genoa sheet angling cars were running on ceased non-SS bearing and caused damage to the track by creating small burrs along its surface. I will have to sand and smooth down the aluminum burrs before the bearing will run unimpeded.
3. Found round plastic shanks from an old junk drawer and used these to replace the sheave.
4. Hours of swearing putting the bearing system back together 

The car system on this boat is now working much better.

Cost of project: 8$