Adjustable Genoa Cars system

Back in the cockpit there is a unique genoa sheeting and sail angling system. One of the things we noticed this year while racing is that its impossible to adjust the genoa cars when the cars are partially or fully loaded (10+ knots true or more) when pointing close hauled. To make our lives a little more adjustable next year, I have added an bracket to the aft end of the genoa car track. This bracket is mounted to the track using 1/8" stainless steel backing plates (3$ for 1/8" stainless base plates at the local metal salvage yard). I reused existing hardware that I removed from Santeria, an old cheek block and cam cleat mounted to the stainless plate. This system will have a 3:1 purchase, and most importantly, we will be able to make genoa car adjustments from the cockpit.

Total cost 3$ + stainless bolts and nuts (5$) + a little elbow grease :-)

The experiment......

The product....need to file down the edges a little

Tiller / Rudder Slop

Just completed a little project to get rid of the sloppiness between my tiller and rudder. The tiller has been modified by a previous owner to allow it to ride up and down vertically. With this modification, the tiller handle had about 5 degrees of play. Taking the play out will make the boat more responsive to tiller movement and make it better suited for an auto pilot. Using a 7.99 cutting board and a 1.79 bolt, this modification was made rather simply. This solution should last a long time. Its not all that flashy, but it works.

Poitin / Evelyn 24 Newspaper Articles

Found these using Googles newspaper search

1976 Brochure Material

Fall 2011......MOB Pole

Considering making a MOB Pole. Found a part list for such a project on the web.

Parts List for Crew overboard marking pole:

1 x 10' ¾" PVC Pipe
2 x ¾" PVC caps
1 x ½" Wooden dowel apx 2' in length
2 x ¼" bolts w/thumb screws
10 x 2oz lead egg sinkers
1 x section of reflective tape apx 2' in length
2 x Shrimp net floats

Can't figure out where to find equivalent parts for the shrimp net floats. The shrimp industry isn't that strong here in freshwater Canada....

Fall 2011...Gimbaled Stove

Will need a source for heating water during long distance races. Didn't want to pay the piper and buy a new Forspar gimbaled stove and instead made my own. Spent 45$ in total, 30$ for the burner and 15 for the galvanized strapping and rivets and bolts and nuts. DIY special!

Newcastle Yacht Club - Oshawa Race Sep 10, 2011

Just getting around to publishing this now.

Did very well in this race. 

Brian McIntosh and myself double handed this one.

Course: Oshawa 
Wind: 8-15 kts 
Waves: 2-3 ft

Here is our track:

Fall 2011...Race season finished

Santeria performed well this year. I had no expectations at the beginning of the season as I wasn't sure how she would perform across the range of wind and sea conditions. We learned lots, but there's lots more to do as the crew hasn't practiced running with spinnaker.

Fall 2011...Post season repairs and projects

Santerias winter projects. Next seasons to-do list:

• Continue reorganizing deck hardware
• Pushpit base plates are cracked, needs repair.
• Bow navigation light is cracked, will need replacement
• Start looking at LED navigation lights for better power management
• New companionway hatch boards
• Repair main cover
• Make main sausage bag
• Make genoa sausage bag

Summer 2011...Double handed improvements

One of my 2 year objectives is to start long distance racing, possibly single, but most likely double handed. On all points of sail, either single or double handed, its my thinking that having a better laid-out halyard and sheeting system for sheet and halyard adjustment from the cockpit is critical. I'm thinking that organizers and clutches running halyards back to the cockpit, accessible by all crew, would be advantageous in helping continually adjust the boat to a specific sea and wind conditions without going forward. A tiller pilot is also something I believe essential.

With help from Bartski, I came by a set of organizers and rope stoppers from another boat and would be useful. I also purchased 2 garhauer MS-6 mast plates, one port and starboard of the mast, to lead halyards, up-down hauls, and cunninghams outboard the the organizers, and aft to the rope stoppers. One step closer to an improved double handed system.

Summer 2011....Rigid Boom Vang

Purchased a rigid boom vang from Garhauer marine. Installed it to the mast using aluminum bar spacers and bolts. Peter and Bart fine tuned the vang and it looks and works much better now! It takes very little effort to apply the Vang with its 4:1 system. Nice!

Summer 2011...Let the race season begin

All basic repairs and additions have been made. Had to buy new turnbuckles for inner and outer shrouds and the existing set have expired. I have no confidence with the old turnbuckles in heavier air. Its time to replace.

Boat started out well with 2 good race results. Excited about the upcoming 2011 season!

Spring 2011...3 day before launch...Knot meter and Wind Instrumentation

Purchased a Domino System Wind, Speed, and Depth instrument. This instrument was designed & built by a Port Credit On company. Lucky for me, there was a person that is local and available to install and support the unit. Two visits to the boat and he had the speed transducer, wind vane and instrumentation installed. 300$ later and a bottle of scotch, I had speed and wind working.

Very pleased.

Spring 2011...Backstay Deflector. 2 days till launch

Main has a tiny bit of roach extending beyond rear triangle and needs a back-stay deflector to tack. while taking the mast down last year, we broke the back-stay deflector. Called around to a few sail lofts and finally found a thick piece of batten to replace the broken piece.

Spring 2011 ...Bow fix...1 week before going in!

The bow has taken a few bumps near the waterline over the years and had a small hole, about 2 cm in diameter, where the fiberglass was pushed into the hull cavity. Using a dremell tool, I remove some of the surrounding fiberglass and core material. Apparently airex foam doesn't rot like balsa core when exposed to water. The spread of cracking and water damage was isolated to with 4 inches out from the original hole.

Next step was layering epoxy and cloth into the cavity where the airex was removed (between the inner and outer fibreglass layers) with the dremell. over a period of 3 days, the job was done and completed with a grey primer overcoat.

Will check the repair again during fall haul out.

Spring 2011....Rudder complete....now the tiller handle

With the tiller handle removed, it was sanded, and re-varnished.

I'm happy with how it turned out.

Spring 2011 ...Time to fix the Rudder

The rudder spent the entire winter in my basement drying out. There was a noticeable crack along the entire below water aft edge (3 feet long, visible separation of the core from the outer fibreglass). The rudder core was a tear shaped piece of mahogany, not water damaged and still in very good shape. This must have just happened towards the end of the fall 2010 season. Using a few wedges and clamps, the crack was opened wide and a batch of West Systems epoxy was poured in. Using about 20 wood clamps, the separated fibreglass was clamped shut, forcing the epoxy to fill the gaps internally within the rudder, and pushing the extra out. This re-bonding the wood core to the outer fiberglass skin. The aft edge was then sealed with 3M 5200.

The 2012 season will determine the success of this repair.

Spring 2011 ...Rope Sale

Picked up new sheets and halyards for Santeria


Genoa Sheet 1/4 MARLOW EXCEL LITE 6MM 1/4
Spinny Topping Lift 1/4 BRIDGELINE SPECTRA 1/4"
Spinny Down Haul 1/4 BRIDGELINE SPECTRA 1/4"
Main Halyard 1/8 SAMSON AMSTEEL Grey 1/8"
Spinny Sheet 1/4 Nova Lite HP 1/4"
Main Sheet 5/16 Marlow Excel Pro 8mm
BackStay adjustment sheet 5/16 Marlow Excel Pro 8mm
Traveller Sheet 1/4
Baby Stay 1/8 SAMSON AMSTEEL Grey 1/8"

Winter 2010 .. More from the web...

Copied from...

Able Poitin 24 Information

http://nbayracing.com/Evelyn32-2Forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=67&start=15

Wonderful to hear about you guys and your interest in the old Poitin. I got to know the boat really well, racing on three or four of them, three in R.I. and one on Cape Cod. Since I went ahead and bought a Pointin' 29 from Nick Gregory ("Pamela"), I have never owned a 24, but learned quite a bit about them from Bob Evelyn. Sally [RIP:-(] was the first to tell me that Rod Johnstone lived "right across the street" down in Essex and more or less copied the Poitin. Made the J-24 a bit narrower and 500 lbs. lighter. Also really got in on the marketing angle and forced Bob to "move up" to Pointin' Star, the premier 29 when the J-24s took off. THEN Johnstone essentially copied THAT Evelyn design which, of course, became the J-30! Nick Gregory corroborated this also. Bob Evelyn's boats profited immensely from having Airex cored hulls, as opposed to balsa. Look up David Pascoe, a Florida-based marine surveyor, if you want the scoop on balsa. Seemed not enough builders remember Heyedahl's ridiculous "Kon Tiki", eh?

In any case, Bob Evelyn told me that the only design element he wished he'd changed on the 24's was the "hips". Obviously put in there as reserve stability, they nonetheless exert a tad too much parasitic drag for his taste. Whit Batchelder, who built Cherry Pi (and I dunno how many other 24's), chided Bob for not "aerating his resin". Cherry Pi also has balsa blocks in lieu of other core material. It also may well have been Batchelder who made several of the modified 24's with the "popped-up" coach roof. They're very distinctive. Incredibly, I actually saw one of these "headroom" 24's from a train, while riding back from NYC to Providence! Right alongside a building in eastern Connecticut, about 20 yards from the tracks! Can't miss a Poitin! This popped deck may well ALSO have eliminated the odd and clumsy hatch arrangement on the Poitin.

Speaking of the latter, I actually modified a Poitin (bound for Ohio, I think) after it was sold to a gent while sitting high and dry in Mashpee (Cape Cod). I took some Airex, made a huge "bracket" which came from the sides of the hull, across under the companionway and up either side of the hatch opening. Cutting out that transverse "bar" in the decking and heavy glassing PLUS a thick aluminum fascia "bracket" finished the job. As far as I could tell, the mod didn't introduce any flexing or weakness and it ABSOLUTELY made going down below a much more pleasant chore! I strongly recommend this move. You could even do what I did and add that thick (buffable) aluminum "horseshoe" to supplement the Airex and glass bracket.

I raced on John Hatfield's Samaki out of Megansett (North Falmouth). John actually put a BMW inboard in it. Later, John had pranged the keel horrendously on Seal Rocks (Buzzards Bay) and he "solved" the bent result by going into the NACA foil book and microballooning a truly FAT keel section. Two strikes against it. Later, I saw it for sale in Soundings. The guy who had bought it had lavished huge bucks on it. Since Samaki had an Etchells (?) mast and was essentially a 3/4 rig, it had runners. This new owner had put industrial-strength runners in :-0. Kinda humorous. Otherwise, he HAD done a beautiful job cosmetically, but really swore he knew nothing about the bent and slathered keel! One of the nicest Poitins I sailed was "Point Blank" out of Swampscot. There are still a few lurking around western RI. A couple I raced on had a brutal device which was essentially a "universally adjustable" jib-lead. Not nice to sit on! :-)

When you're working on your Poitins, pay particular attention to the bulkheads. Sometimes these need new glass. It would also be a brute, but doable, to grind out and fair in those "hips". They're unnecessary and S-L-O-W-W-W-W-W-W. I'm truly warped in that I love the smell of resin in the morning.......have grinder, will travel!

Also, if you're racing, get North* (!) to cut your main pretty deep draft----the boats need driving power in winds below 12 knots. I have actually beaten some J-24s in Narragansett Bay, but it took a lot of wild-ass tactical gymnastics. Poitins just a smidge slower in light-to-moderate air (the weight, plus ?). Come into their own above 18 kts. Be sure to have main AND jib cunninghams.


Copied from ....
http://www.nbayracing.com/EvelynOthers.htm

Evelyn 24

"The 24 was the first Evelyn design.

This boat came out 1 year before the J24.
The first one was called Pointin which I guess is pronounced "pawsheen" which they say is Gaelic (sp?) for "home brew". It was also known as the "Pointin 24" or Able Pointin 24. Able Marine built the production version. There were many custom versions of this boat.

Bob took a 3rd or 4th in the quarter ton worlds in Texas in one that I got to sail on with him. It was flush deck and had had a foot cut off the beam (with a chain saw no less!).

The next boat Bob did was the Pointin 29. I doubt you will ever find a picture of this but it looked like the
bigger version of the 24.

You have a picture of the 32 half toner and there was a similar looking 36 one toner. I think this is when Bob started Formula Yachts to build these boats.

Then there were boats like "Evelution" an IOR 41 footer that eventually found its way to the Coast Guard academy. Bob designed and built the Evelyn 26 late 70s early 80s as a MORC beater. It was around the
same time as the very very similar looking S2 came out."


Copied from ....

Kenyon Boom


Mast and Boom Replacement:

Kenyon Spars 2222 Boom
Measurements (outside): 2.25" x 2.25" (57mm x 57mm)
Wall Thickness: .068"
Weight/ft.: .87 lbs.
Moments of inertia: Ixx =.51", Iyy =.42"
Circumference: 8 3/16"
Alloy: 6061-T6
Sail slides: 3/8" round slugs (A017, A117) or 3/8" boltrope
Lower slide track: 5/8" x 1/8"
Standard Boom Lengths: 11'10 1/2"

Common Boom usage: Able Poitin 24; Bayliner BU 220; Mystic Mini Ton; Simon 19; Thistle; US Buccaneer*;





Copied from ....
Kenyon Masts

Kenyon Spars 3550 Mast
Measurements (outside): 5.00" x 3.50" (127mm x 89mm)
Wall Thickness: .130"
Weight/ft.: 2.2 lbs.
Moments of inertia: Ixx = 5.5", Iyy = 2.7"
Circumference: 13 3/4"
Alloy: 6061-T6
Sail slides: 3/4" flat slides (A006M)
Standard Mast Lengths: 28', 32', 33'8" 40'
Common Mast usage: Able Poitin 24*; Allied Seawind 30K Mizzen*;


Atlantic; Antares K Main; Balboa 26*; Bech 25; Black Tie; Cal 25*; CF-27; Contessa 26; Columbia 259; DM Tradition 26; Ericson 21.8, 25*; Evelyn 26OD*; Grampian 26; Hunter 25*, 25.5*; Lancer 25; Meridian; O'Day 25, 26, Dolphin, 32K Mizzen; Pearson Triton 27; Ranger 23*; Roberts 24*, 25*; Seidelman 25; South Coast 25; S-2 7.3, 8.0B; Thunderbird 25*; US-27; Viking;


Copied from Sailing Anarchy

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=36014&st=0&p=758929&hl=poitin&fromsearch=1&#entry758929

"Ok - we have just hit the WAY BACk button here -

Back in 76 - Bob Evelyn along with the Halls's produced the Able Poitin - ( Irish for booze ) - the boat was first shown to the world at the NYC boat show - and due to the size/ beam/ etc -of the floor that they were on - it was shown in a heeling / tipped configuration - 

We bought one - and raced it for years in NJ / LIS etc - as Hot Toddy -

They were all mast head rigs - although some later pumped up the mast and went fractional - but my reccolection was that the mastheads had it all over them

Some of the innovations that were on the boat - halyards below deck -flush curved deck - with a big center hatch next to the mast that allowed all sorts of stuff to be passed up and down easily - the jib leads were all on tracks - that allowed for both inboard / out board motion - as fore and aft control - the rig that was originally on them was a bit cludgy -with a pin to afix the car - we subsequently modified it with two lines to allow for easy control

The boat was really beamy -around 11 ft - and did not meet some of the trailering approvals - eg - we we were suposed to have a wide load car on some roads - ( this might be old age setting in )

the boat absolutely loved the breeze - and was a real rocket ship =( yet no slouch in the lighter stuff ) we did one Edlu Race - when the Edlu was to Clintn and Mattituck - and th MORC boats only went to Mattituck - we started in the last division - an hour after the IOR One Tonners - 27.5 - blowing like stink upwind- and we rounded the " weather mark at the same time they did - popped the chute and the blooper - told you that this was the way back machine - and surfed planed all the way back down the sound 

Later - found that we could improve the performance in the lighter air - and took out 250 lbs of lead from the keel - and added about 9 inches to the boom - greatly improved performance - and never suffered 

Around the same time as the 24 came out - maybe a year or so later - they built the E 29 - which was a blown up 24 - and in my opinion did not ever really excel - Yes more comfortable - with an inboard - and all that - but it wasn't considerably faster - and many times we were sailing almost boat for boat with them"

Winter 2010 ....Not much on the web about this boat....

From Sailboatdata.com: Everything I could find about the Able Poitin 24 

Hull Type: Fin Keel
Rig Type: Masthead Sloop
LOA: 24.00' / 7.32m
LWL: 19.50' / 5.94m
Beam: 10.00' / 3.05m
Listed SA: 265 ft2 / 24.62 m2
Draft (max.) 4.00' / 1.22m
Draft (min.)
Disp. 3750 lbs./ 1701 kgs.
Ballast: 1720 lbs. / 780 kgs.
Designer: Bob Evelyn
Builder: Able Shipwrights Inc. (USA)
Construct.: FG
Bal. type:
First Built: 1975
Last Built:

# Built: ??
RIG DIMENSIONS  KEY
I: 31.00' / 9.45m
J: 10.30' / 3.14m
P: 25.50' / 7.77m
E: 8.30' / 2.53m
PY:
EY:
SPL:
ISP:
SA(Fore.): 159.65 ft2 / 14.83 m2
SA(Main): 105.83 ft2 / 9.83 m2
Total(calc.)SA:  265.48 ft2 / 24.66 m2
SA/Disp: 17.65
Est. Forestay Len.: 32.67' / 9.96m
DESIGNER: Robert Evelyn

Sailboatdata.com --> Able Poitin 24

Winter 2010 - 2011...Brrrrrr

Preparations for 2011 Season:

• Fix the split rudder
• Sand and varnish the tiller handle
• Fix the bow, looks like someone bumped into the dock a little too hard. Epoxy and cloth here i come!
• Knot meter is broken. Time to replace it!
• No wind instrumentation. Got to have it!
• Sheet and halyards need replacing. Hello Chandlery, do you have frequent buyer discounts!
• Electrical need serious improvement. Would like to add USB port for charging cell phones plus instrument panels for additional electrical components
• Improve navigation electrical system. Start thinking LED's for better (less) power usage. Will be attending overnight races in 2012
• Existing sail inventory seem fair, Kevlar main and genoa. Dacron #2 and #3 jib, #2 main.
• Bilge pump stopped working Sep 2010, time to look for replacement.
• Boat is rigged for fully crewed racing. Time to start thinking about hardware placement and usage for Double handed.

July 2010.....

Purchased in July 2010. The sail inventory was fair and the boat needed a little TLC. Didnt need the BBQ, and the seller wanted it so we negotiated!